TTSH Road Case Assembly

SAN PEDRO LABS
TTSH ROAD CASE
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Please select an option below.

CASE DELIVERED 2017

Your TTSH road case has more screws securing the center section than previous versions, but is otherwise the same as the 2016 model.

You will need a medium sized Philips screwdriver.

Carefully remove the road case from its packaging, and place it on a work surface, rear (synth) side down – this is the side with the handle and the side panels.  Open the latches and remove the lid.  It’s a good idea to always open and close the case laid flat, rear side down.  Put the lid to one side, you won’t be needing it for a while.

To install the TTSH panel and PCB, you’ll need to remove the center section.  To do this, you first need to loosen all the screws from each 3-legged corner, and one from each of the corner braces at the bottom as shown in the photos below. These screws are a little longer than the others, and hold the center section in place. You don’t need to take them all the way out, just unscrew by about 1/4in (about 7mm). There are 14 screws to loosen in total.

bottom (3 corner screws and 1 from the brace) :
Version 2

top (just the 3 corner screws) :
IMG_6244

Now you’ve removed all the screws holding in the center section, you should unscrew and remove both the side panels. This isn’t totally necessary but it makes it easier to remove the center section and connect sockets to the panels.

 

Now carefully pull out the center section. It should come out fairly easily. The easiest way to remove the center section is by placing your hands in the holes at the side (where the panels were) and pushing the center section forward with your fingers.

 

hole for side panel

 

To make your life easier, you should attach the reverb and any additional electronics (e.g. MIDI-CV interface) before attaching the front panel.  Pilot holes are provided on the rear for the reverb screws.  Check your reverb tank manufacturer’s instructions on mounting orientation. At the most basic level, you should have a “vertical wall mount” tank. Some tank manufacturers (e.g. Belton / Accutronics) also specify whether the RCA connectors should face up or down, although it’s debatable whether or not it makes any audible difference.

Don’t over-tighten these screws! You might damage the isolating grommets.

218

We suggest using the left panel for additional IO of your choice, and the right panel for power, but it’s your synth, arrange it however you like!

Now you can slide your front panel (with attached electronics) into the grooves in the center section.  This will also be snug.  Go slow.  Ensure even travel down each side as you slide it in, and do not force it (you might rip the tolex).   Each case has been tested for panel fit before shipping, so it will fit, you just need to be careful with it.  You may find it easier with the center section slightly inserted into the outer case, so that you get the leveling benefit of all 4 feet.

207 (electronics not shown, but yours should be attached to the panel by now)

 

The panel is correctly seated when it is flush with the top, or just a tiny bit lower.  Note that there are no screw mounts for the panel; you don’t need to screw in the panel as the grooves hold it very securely.  If you wish, you can put some screws and nuts in the panel holes for aesthetics, but it’s not necessary. If there is a small gap at the top, you might also want to add a bit of hot glue in the corners if you’re planning to throw the case around a lot.

IMG_4660

 

 

Almost done!  Now you just need to secure your wired power connector in the hole provided in the right side panel.

 

Leave the freshly wired side panel(s) on the inside, you’ll grab it/them after re-installing the center section.

 

Carefully re-insert the center section into the outer shell.

Don’t put the corner screws back in just yet – that’s just tempting fate.

Reach inside and grab the side panels, pull them out but don’t screw them right down yet either.

Power up the TTSH and check everything is ok.

 

When you’re happy it’s all working, you can go ahead and put those corner screws back in, and secure the side panels.

IMG_4656

 

Congratulations! It’s done!

 

 

 

CASE DELIVERED 2016

You have a slightly improved version of the TTSH road case.

You will need a medium sized Philips screwdriver.

Carefully remove the road case from its packaging, and place it on a work surface, rear (synth) side down – this is the side with the handle and the side panels.  Open the latches and remove the lid.  It’s a good idea to always open and close the case laid flat, rear side down.  Put the lid to one side, you won’t be needing it for a while.

To install the TTSH panel and PCB, you’ll need to remove the center section.  To do this, you first need to unscrew one screw from each corner – just the screws that hold the corners in place at the top and bottom, not the sides.   These 4 screws are a little longer than the others, and hold the center section in place.

196   202

Now you’ve removed the 4 screws holding in the center section, you should unscrew and remove both the side panels. This makes it easy to remove the center section.

 

Now carefully pull out the center section.  It will be snug, but should come out fairly easily.    Start to remove the center section by placing your hands in the holes at the side (where the panels were) and pushing the center section forward with your fingers. Keep pushing, and with some gentle wiggling, the center section will pop free.

 

hole for side panel

 

To make your life easier, you should attach the reverb and any additional electronics (e.g. MIDI-CV interface) before attaching the front panel.  Pilot holes are provided on the rear for the reverb screws (also provided with your case).  Check your reverb tank manufacturer’s instructions on mounting orientation. At the most basic level, you should have a “vertical wall mount” tank. Some tank manufacturers (e.g. Belton / Accutronics) also specify whether the RCA connectors should face up or down.

Don’t over-tighten these screws! You might damage the isolating grommets.

218

We suggest using the left panel for additional IO of your choice, and the right panel for power, but it’s your synth, arrange it however you like!

Now you can slide your front panel (with attached electronics) into the grooves in the center section.  This will also be snug.  Go slow.  Ensure even travel down each side as you slide it in, and do not force it (you might rip the tolex).   Each case has been tested for panel fit before shipping, so it will fit, you just need to be careful with it.  You may find it easier with the center section slightly inserted into the outer case, so that you get the leveling benefit of all 4 feet.

207 (electronics not shown, but yours should be attached to the panel by now)

 

The panel is correctly seated when it is flush with the top.  Note that there are no screw mounts for the panel; you don’t need to screw in the panel as the grooves hold it better than any screw mounts would.  If you wish, you can put some screws and nuts in the panel holes for aesthetics, but it’s not necessary.

IMG_4660

 

 

Almost done!  Now you just need to secure your wired power connector in the hole provided in the right side panel.

 

Leave the freshly wired side panel(s) on the inside, you’ll grab it/them after re-installing the center section.

 

Carefully re-insert the center section.  It will be even more snug now it has the panel attached, but it will fit, again just make sure to apply even pressure on all sides and it should be a smooth operation.  

Don’t put the corner screws back in just yet – that’s just tempting fate.

Reach inside and grab the side panels, pull them out but don’t screw them right down yet either.

Power up the TTSH and check everything is ok.

 

When you’re happy it’s all working, you can go ahead and put those corner screws back in, and secure the side panels.

IMG_4656

We’ve included a couple extra long screws for you to optionally install in the “top-side” position on the corners, if you find that after installing the panel, there is a little movement and you’d like a tighter lateral fit. Just replace the 1/2in screws with the extra 3/4in screws provided. This will apply a little pressure to the sides of the center section and ensure ultimate tightness!

 

Congratulations! It’s done!

 

 

 

CASE DELIVERED 2015 OR EARLIER

You will need a medium sized Philips screwdriver.

Carefully remove the road case from its packaging, and place it on a work surface, rear (synth) side down – this is the side with the handle and the side panels.  Open the latches and remove the lid.  Always open and close the case laid flat, rear side down.  Put the lid to one side, you won’t be needing it for a while.

To install the TTSH panel and PCB, you’ll need to remove the center section.  To do this, you first need to unscrew one screw from each corner – just the screws that hold the corners in place at the top and bottom, not the sides.   These 4 screws are a little longer than the others, and hold the center section in place.

196   202

Now you’ve removed the 4 screws holding in the center section, you should remove the right side panel, so that you can feed through the power cable later. If you’re installing a MIDI interface or some other I/O, remove both side panels.

 

Now carefully pull out the center section.  It will be snug, but should come out fairly easily.  BE VERY CAREFUL AT THIS POINT – TRUST ME, YOU DO NOT WANT TO TRAP YOUR FINGERS.  Remove the center section by pulling on the front then pushing up from the back, without sticking your fingers in the holes at the side.

 

204   <— beware of finger trauma.

 

To make your life easier, you should attach the reverb and any additional electronics (e.g. MIDI-CV interface) before attaching the front panel.  Pilot holes are provided on the rear for the reverb screws.  The RCA connectors should be facing down.  Don’t over-tighten these screws.

218

We suggest using the left panel for additional IO of your choice, and the right panel for power, but it’s your synth, arrange it however you like!

Now you can slide your front panel (with attached electronics) into the grooves in the center section.  This will also be snug.  Go slow.  Ensure even travel down each side as you slide it in, and do not force it or you’ll rip the tolex.   Each case has been tested for panel fit before shipping, so it will fit, you just need to be careful with it.  You may find it easier with the center section slightly inserted into the outer case, so that you get the leveling benefit of all 4 feet.

207 (electronics not shown, but yours should be attached to the panel by now)

 

The panel is correctly seated when there is about 1/16th inch gap at the top.  Note that there are no screw mounts, you don’t need to screw in the panel as the grooves hold it better than any screw mounts would.  If you wish, you can put some screws and nuts in the panel holes for aesthetics, but it’s not necessary.

210

 

 

Almost done!  Now you just need to secure your wired power connector in the hole provided in the right side panel.

 

Leave the freshly wired side panel(s) on the inside, you’ll grab it/them after re-installing the center section.

 

Carefully re-insert the center section.  It will be even more snug now it has the panel attached, but it will fit, again just make sure to apply even pressure on all sides and it should be a smooth operation.  Maybe play yourself some Sade at this point, for encouragement.  Don’t forget to ensure your fingers don’t get squashed – do not put them through the side holes!

Don’t put the corner screws back in just yet – that’s just tempting fate.

Reach inside and grab the side panels, pull them out but don’t screw them right down yet either.

Power up the TTSH and check everything is ok.

 

When you’re happy it’s all working, you can go ahead and put those corner screws back in, and secure the side panels.

 

Congratulations! It’s done!

 

 

 

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