TTSH Studio Case Flat Pack Assembly






Carefully unpack and check you have all the parts:

  • 13x 1½ in #8 wood screws
  • 4x    1 in #8-32 machine screws and nuts
  • 4x    ⅝ in #4 wood screws
  • About 20 small nails
  • 5 blocks of pine
  • 1 piece of hardwood (back panel)
  • 4 little rubber feet, self adhesive

You will need:

  • 1 medium sized philips screwdriver
  • a hammer
  • some wood glue is recommended but not essential


Each flat pack set has previously been assembled (excluding the back panel) in our workshop and all edges aligned, then disassembled for shipping. This means you should find everything fits together perfectly, but we advise that you still take care when assembling that all edges line up smoothly as you tighten the screws.

It’s probably a good idea to read through these instructions (or at least look at the pictures) before you start.


[optional options]

  • If you have got yourself some screw-in feet, go ahead and drill the holes for those in the base section now. You can attach the feet later. Included are 4 small self-adhesive feet, if you don’t care about big chunky feet.
  • For the sturdiest construction, we recommend that you apply some wood glue to each surface before attaching the parts and screwing down. However, your case will still be adequately robust for studio use without glue, if you prefer to just use the screws.






1. Attach the front to the base, using the #8 wood screws.  Apply some glue if you’re using glue.  Hold the two pieces firmly together as you screw. Don’t screw all the way at first – ensure the edges line up before you tighten the screws.

002  003

 2. Attach each side panel to the base and front (#8 wood screws, optional glue)

 006  011


3. Attach the top  (#8 wood screws, optional glue)



4. Get your reverb and attach it to the inside back panel using the #8-32 machine screws and nuts.  The screw heads should be on the outside, nuts on the inside. Keep the rubbery isolators on the reverb.  The RCA connectors should be pointing upward. The nuts should be snug against the isolators, but don’t squash the isolators. There should be some space between reverb and back panel.

052   048


5. Place the case face down on your work surface, using a sheet of packing foam for protection. Insert the back panel into the back panel space on the rear of the case. To get the best angle for hammering, the bottom of the case should be facing away from you as shown below:

050  058

6. Place the nails through the pre-drilled holes in the back panel. There is a bit of wiggle room so check it’s all straight and then tap in the nails with a hammer. The back panel should lay flush with the edges of the case.  A few extra nails are provided in case you need them.

If the panel is a little bowed, press down in the center so the panel is flat and secure the center nails first.


Your case should now resemble this:


7. Lay the case face up on a work surface. Get your finished TTSH panel and pcb and place it into the front panel space, top in first.  While holding the panel up (you can use a prop here if you run out of hands), feed the DC power socket (which should be connected to the PCB by now) through the hole in the back panel. Connect the reverb to the PCB.



8. Carefully lower the panel and PCB assembly into the case. Align the screw holes on the panel and case. Attach the panel to the case using the #4 screws.  This is also a good time to attach whatever feet you’re going to use.


Congratulations, you’re done!

It should all fit perfectly, but if you find any edges are slightly off after assembly, you can lightly sand them until smooth if you wish.

You can now seal and finish with varnish or paint, but it’s fine to leave it raw if you prefer the raw look.

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